Peru and Pisco 3
continued from part 2
"Pisco is now at the center of a growing trade dispute between
Peru and neighboring Chile over which country has the right to
market the liquor under that name." While both countries claim
a historical legacy to pisco, the underlying cause of the dispute
is over exports and control over the market.
Chile has already cultivated a small export market for its pisco,
mainly to the U.S. and Europe. Peru, however, has been constrained
by economic and political turmoil and unable to capture an export
market for its pisco.
Peru is planning take this dispute before the international
community. "The Peruvian government is planning to take action
under international trade agreements, possibly resorting to the
world trade body GATT, to stop Chile from marketing any drink under
the name of pisco."
A WTO decision granting Peru the sole right to export a clear,
brandy-like liquor under the name pisco would affect all members of
the WTO. This case could set a precedent for additional countries
to claim exclusive rights to a so-called cultural commodity.
Both Peru and Chile are members of the WTO and had agreed upon
joining the GATT to abide by its rules.
A product standard is pending the outcome of the trade dispute
and will most likely be determined by the WTO. According to
Godofredo Gonzalez del Valle, whose family has been making pisco
for four generations, it is all in the stomp. "To make real pisco,
you have to take your shoes off, crush the grapes and let it
ferment in clay bottles. In Chile they make something called
pisco, but it doesn't taste as it should." Chilean pisco is
sweeter and slightly weaker that Peruvian pisco. "Only Peru has
the soil, the climate, and the tradition in making pisco that
give(s) our drink a special taste, and which allow(s) us to call it
pisco", according to Jaime Alvarez Calderon who is in charge of
Peru's multilateral economic negotiations office."
The water pollution from nearby mines threatens the ability to
produce the grapes to make pisco. "Water resources are severely
overburdened with residues" from mines in the region, fishmeal
plants, "as well as from the dumping by numerous 'informal',
unregulated industries and households." Air pollution is also
a severe problem. Harmful emissions from fishmeal processing
plants have caused bronchial illnesses and have seriously damaged
the atmosphere. Moreover, sulfur dioxide emissions from copper
plants have adversely affected the air.
Demand for Peruvian grapes and grape products is strong. The
United Kingdom imports grapes and Taiwan imports Tacma wine
produced in the Ica region.
Water pollution from the mines threatens grape harvests. The
water intended for irrigating and cultivating the vineyards is
loaded with mining residue and chemicals. Water purification is
necessary for the survival of the vineyards. Air pollution must be
dealt with immediately because of the threat to the health and
safety of local residents and workers. The dry air of the Ica
region is immobile because of the sea and the Andes mountain range.
Eliminating river pollution as a result of mining is
imperative. Because of the dry arid climate, chemicals are
absorbed into the local atmosphere and remain in the area.
Other brandy-like liquors made from grapes or chicha could
possibly substitute although there is no substitute for cultural
heritage.
Pisco has been part of Peruvian culture for over 400 years.
To allow the elimination of suitable grapes or permit a lesser
version of it would abolish part of a culture and society. Pisco
is part of a traditional Peruvian meal. Pisco production has been
passed from generation to generation and is a ritual in many
families. The government promotes pisco as being Peruvian, using
the slogan "Pisco es peruana" (Pisco is Pervian) on its culture
crusade in Peru and the rest of the world.
Relevant Literature
